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Daily Archives: March 16, 2017

Why is My Hair Color Fading: 10 Things to Consider

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When maintaining freshly colored hair, there are a few things to consider to ensure your money and color don’t go down the drain, literally. First, we must take a holistic approach to hair health and color. What goes on before and during your color service is just as important as what comes after.

Read on to find out how to prevent hair color from fading.

1) Determine Hair’s Porosity Level

Prior to coloring, it’s important to determine the hair’s health. You may be wondering how to determine what the hair needs. The easiest way to diagnose hair health is to conduct The Wet Stretch Test. This simple test will reveal if the hair is lacking protein, moisture or both. Both protein (keratin) and moisture are essential components of healthy hair –  if they’re missing, your hair color could fade quickly.

If hair is in poor condition (we’re looking at you split ends), a protein or moisturizing treatment may be needed before you color. This will help “fill in” empty spaces in the hair and give the color molecules a better anchor point, resulting in longer lasting color results.

 2) Insufficient Color Processing Time

A common reason behind fast-fading hair color is insufficient processing time, meaning the hair color did not stay on long enough. This especially holds true if you or your client have grey hair.

Grey hair cuticles are tightly packed down, and take longer to open and absorb artificial hair color molecules.

3) Hard Water Effects on Hair Color

It’s estimated that nearly 65% of Americans have hard water in their homes. The elements present in hard water (specifically, calcium and magnesium) are extremely problematic when trying to ensure lasting hair color results. They tend to build up on the hair over time and can prevent color molecules from penetrating the cuticle. If you live in an area with hard water, we recommend removing minerals from the hair with Malibu-C Crystal Gels.

Learn how hard water affects hair color.

4) Inadequate Emulsification

Emulsifying the hair at the shampoo bowl is one of the essential components of a successful and long-lasting color service. For a proper emulsification process, add a small amount of water to the hair and begin to massage the hair and color together, creating a nice lather.

By properly emulsifying the hair, you’re breaking up the oil-based color and ensuring the hair has absorbed as much color as possible before closing the cuticle.

ORGANIC TIP: You should be emulsifying at the bowl for approximately 4-5 minutes.

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5) Rinsing with Hot Water

When the time comes to rinse out the hair color, be sure that you’re rinsing with lukewarm water. Too hot of water can cause the cuticle to open further, allowing for some of the color to rinse out during your shampoo process.

ORGANIC TIP: When clients wash their hair at home, they should also only use lukewarm water. Scalding hot water will only cause their hair color to fade prematurely.

6) Shampooing Hair Too Soon After Coloring

Reminding your clients that waiting at least 24 hours to wash their hair after their color service will help prolong their fresh, new color. However, what may be more important than waiting to shampoo is using the correct aftercare products.

7) Using Products That Strip Hair Color

The number one ingredient to avoid in your aftercare products is SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfates). However, using color care shampoo and conditioners that are also pH-balanced and free of plastics will prove to enhance and extend the life of hair color.

Using products with too high of a pH can cause the cuticle to re-open. An open cuticle will ultimately cause your hair color to fade fast and off tone. In addition, styling products that are loaded with plastics and petrochemicals can build up on the hair, causing hair to appear dull and lifeless.

8) Improper UV Protection

Using products without proper UV protection is an open invite for the harsh, damaging UV rays of the sun to fade hair color. If clients do not have proper UV protection in the hair, advise them to wear a hat when they are outside to limit exposure.

ORGANIC TIP: Try sending your clients home with shampoo, conditioner, or leave-in products formulated with natural UV protectants, such as Oway Color Protection Veil and Color Protection Hair Bath.

9) Using Hot Styling Tools Without Heat Protection

Another hair color culprit are hot tools! If your client is adamant user of flat irons, curling wands, and blow dryers, be sure they are using thermal protection hair products. This will protect the delicate hair against extreme heat, and allow color to stay in the hair longer.

10) Color Hair Too Infrequently

Although there are semi-permanent and permanent hair color options, no color will look the same as the first day it was done. By addressing the previously stated causes of hair color fading, we also suggest making sure you are coloring your hair regularly enough to achieve your desired results.

Do you know any other causes of hair color fading? Feel free to share below!

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KUKUI BUTTER BENEFITS: The Ancient Hawaiian Secret to Healthy Hair & Scalp

Kukui-Butter-Benefits

There’s a reason kukui (Aleurites moluccana) is Hawaii’s official state tree. For hundreds of years, the locals relied on every part of the tree for food, building canoes, and treating various ailments like stomach and oral health problems. Early settlers would roast the kukui nuts to extract oil, which they used to light candles and torches. Hence, it became popularly known as candlenut tree.

But it was the Hawaiian women who saw the beauty benefits of kukui oil. Because of its light scent and color, not to mention its rich vitamin content, they used the oil to treat various skin and hair problems. Today, kukui is regarded as one of the best sources of polyunsaturated fatty acids and vitamins that the oil and butter derived from it have already become staple ingredients in many skin and hair care products.

Benefits of Kukui Butter to the Hair

Promotes Hair Growth

On average, all of us grow hair at about ¼ inch every month. But if yours is growing less than that (or not at all), it may be due to some scalp issues. Greasy and chemically laden products can clog the pores in our scalp, causing build up. This stunts hair growth as it keeps the scalp from breathing, and blood and nutrients from reaching the follicles.

Like jojoba oil, kukui butter is a lightweight emollient. Unlike its synthetic and occlusive counterparts, kukui penetrates the scalp and hair, allowing the skin to breathe and absorb all the necessary nutrients to continue its growth cycle. Furthermore, kukui is high in Omega-3 fatty acids (alpha-linoleic acid) essential for hair growth.

Prevents Hair Loss

Apart from Omega-3 fatty acids, kukui butter is also rich in vitamin C and E. Vitamin C is a known antioxidant that blocks harmful chemicals and free radicals that weaken the hair and cause it to fall out.  On the other hand, Vitamin E helps improve circulation in the scalp by bringing oxygen to the hair follicles. These essential vitamins work together to ensure the hair has all the nutrients it needs to grow healthy and strong.

Repairs Damaged Hair

Dealing with damaged hair can be a bit frustrating especially if you love styling and coloring your hair. Fortunately, you don’t need to chop it all off or completely swear off coloring to restore it back to health. All it needs is a little TLC, and maybe some kukui butter to bring it back to life.

As mentioned before, kukui contains antioxidants that repair the hair shaft and strip the hair of free radicals causing the damage – without dehydrating it. Instead, it fills cracks in the hair structure and seals it to prevent moisture from escaping.

When coloring or bleaching hair, it is best to use products that contain emollients like kukui butter. That way you won’t damage the integrity of the hair. Oway Hbleach is the first-ever lightener derived from kukui butter and pure essential oils, so there’s little to no damage when lifting hair.

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Hydrates Strands

Dull, parched hair and shiny, new hairstyles don’t exactly go well together. When styling, the hair needs to be hydrated and strong enough to withstand any heat or color. The good news is, there’s kukui butter for that.

Kukui also has rich Vitamin A content which helps soothe and hydrate the hair. Its emollient properties lock in moisture by laying down a triglyceride blanket of lipids containing unsaturated fatty acids that protect the hair from further drying.1

Reduces Scalp Psoriasis

oway-hbleachFor centuries, oil derived from kukui has been used as topical treatment for various skin issues in Hawaii. It is believed to help reduce inflammation, burning, and itching – which is not surprising considering the high amounts of Omega-3 fatty acids found in kukui. In 2011, a group of researchers found that Omega-3 fatty acids, when used as supplementary treatment, significantly reduces psoriasis and even scalp lesions.2

Isn’t it wonderful how nature provides us all the answers to our health and beauty concerns? Kukui butter may not be as popular as other oils, but we certainly can’t deny the amazing benefits it brings our body.

Sources:

1Ako, H., Fujikawa, L., and Gray, D. (1993).  Emollient action of kukui nut oil. Available: http://journal.scconline.org/pdf/cc1993/cc044n05/p00239-p00247.pdf

2Balbas, GM et al. (2011). Study on the use of omega-3 fatty acids as a therapeutic supplement in treatment of psoriasis. Available: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3133503/

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