Professional Organic Salon Products

Salon Hair Diagnostics

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Proper hair analysis, which accurately assesses the health of the client’s hair, is an essential component of the most successful color service. There are six key factors that must be determined:

[two_columns ]• Elasticity
• Texture
• Density[/two_columns] [two_columns_last ]• Porosity
• Moisture
• Wave Pattern[/two_columns_last]
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[tabswrap] [tabhead id=”1″] Elasticity [/tabhead] [tabhead id=”2″] Texture [/tabhead] [tabhead id=”3″] Density [/tabhead] [tabhead id=”4″] Porosity [/tabhead] [tabhead id=”5″] Moisture [/tabhead] [tabhead_last id=”6″] Wave Pattern [/tabhead_last] [tab id=”1″]

Elasticity

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Elasticity can be determined by measuring the hair’s ability to stretch then return to its original length without breaking. The best way to measure hair’s elasticity is through the use of the Wet Stretch Test. Good elasticity indicates that the hair is healthy with strong side bonds that hold the hair’s delicate inner fibers in place. Healthy hair should stretch about 50% longer than it’s normal length and then return when wet (about 20% when dry).

Poor elasticity will indicate one of two problems. If the hair breaks when you attempt to stretch it, the hair lacks strength indicating it is in need of protein. In this case, the hair should be treated with Revamp. If the hair stretches without breaking but fails to return to its natural length, it indicates that the hair lacks moisture and should be treated with Aqua Boost Treatment.
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Texture

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Hair texture is determined by the thickness of the individual hair strands and be classified as coarse, medium, or fine. The determination of the hair’s texture will allow you to adjust your processing time as well as determine treatment plans if it is determined that hair needs additional strength. Revamp and Power Build Treatment are excellent products to treat hair that requires additional strength.

Texture

Strands

Strength

Effects of Processing

FineThinWeakMost Susceptible to Damage
MediumAverageStrongWill Process Normally
CoarseThickStrongestWill be Resistent to Processing

To determine texture, feel a single strand of hair from four different parts of the head including the front hairline, temple, crown, and nape. Your professional experience with hair’s thickness will guide you in comparing the relative diameter of the strands.
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Density

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Hair density measures the number of individual hair strands on 1 square inch of scalp. It indicates how many
hairs there are on a person’s head. Hair density can be classified as low, medium, or high (also known as thin, medium, or dense). Hair density is different from hair texture so individuals with the same hair
texture can have different densities. Hair density measures the number of hairs where hair texture measures the thickness of the individual hairs.

The average hair density is about 2,200 hairs per 1 square inch. The average head of hair contains about 100,000 individual hair strands. Hair with high density has more hairs per 1 square inch, and hair with low density has fewer hairs per 1 square inch.

Due to genetic relationships, the number of hairs on the head generally varies with the color of the hair. Blonds usually have the highest density, and people with red hair tend to have the lowest. People with dense hair may require more processing than people with low density hair. Also, considering hair density when consulting a client on their color may result in a more natural looking color result.

Hair Color

Density

Strands per Inch

Strands Per Scalp

Resistance

BlondHigh2,800140,000Slightly More Resistent
BrownAverage2,200110,000Normal
BlackAverage2,160108,000Normal
RedLow1,60080,000Slightly More Susceptible to Damage

To measure hair density, grab approximately one square inch of hair from the four different parts of the head including the front hairline, temple, crown, and nape. While you may use the table above along with your client’s hair color as a rough guide, you should use your professional experience as the ultimate guide. Your client’s hair density may vary independently of their hair color. If you find that your client’s hair varies despite their color, you should assess the possibility of varying your processing plans accordingly.

Hair density may vary depending on age, chemical history, environmental pollutants, use of prescription of recreational drugs, or care frequency.
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Porosity

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Hair porosity is the ability of the hair to absorb moisture. The degree of porosity is directly related to the condition of the cuticle layer. Healthy hair with a compact cuticle layer is naturally resistant to being penetrated by moisture and is referred to as hydrophobic. Porous hair has a damage, slightly opened, or raised cuticle layer that easily absorbs moisture and is called hydrophilic.

Porosity

Technical Term

Cuticle Condition

Moisture & Resistence

LowHydrophobicTightly ClosedDry and Resistent
NormalAverageHealthyNormal
HighHydrophilicDamaged and Slightly OpenedEasy to Treat but Doesn’t Hold or Grab

Along with texture and density, porosity may have an impact on processing time. The best way to determine your client’s hair’s porosity is to use the Hair Porosity Test.
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Moisture Levels

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Hair that is too dry, indicating a lack of moisture, seems lifeless, brittle, and dull. Hair that is oily, indicating and over abundance of moisture, seems heavy and clumpy. The degree of moisture in the hair is primarily determined by the relative activeness of the sebaceous glands which produce sebum, the hair’s natural moisturizer. However, hair moisture levels can also be effected by improper cleansing, poor product selection, diet, genetics, and environmental pollutants.

When hair is dry it should be treated with Aqua Boost Shampoo, Aqua Boost Treatment, and Revamp before color. This will add moisture, protein, strength, and soften the cuticle to prepare the hair to accept Organic Color. After the color treatment, the hair should be treated with Revamp and Aqua Boost Conditioner which will add additional protein, strength, and moisture. The client should be sent home with Aqua Boost Shampoo and Conditioner for at home care.

When hair is oily it should be treated with one application of Status Quo Shampoo and one applications of Aqua Boost Shampoo before color. This will first cleanse the cuticle of the oily buildup in the hair and then soften the cuticle to prepare the hair to accept Organic Color. After the color treatment, the hair should be treated with Status Quo Conditioner. The client should be sent home with Status Quo Shampoo and Conditioner for at home care.
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Wave Pattern

[styledbox type=”general” align=”center”] Wave Pattern refers to the shape of each individual strand of hair. The four different types of wave patterns are straight, wavy, curly, and kinky.

Generally speaking, the wave pattern of hair is related to the texture of hair. Thicker or more coarse hair tends to have a more wavey pattern presenting an either curly or kinky pattern while straight hair tends to have a more fine to normal texture.

Interestingly, ethnicity is also related to wave pattern. Asian hair tends to present a more straight wave pattern and African American hair often present curly to kinky wave patterns and caucasions tend to generally have straight to wavy hair. However, different kinds of texture and ethnicities can have different wave patterns.
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