One of our main goals as hairstylists is to make our clients happy. But more often than not, there is a huge disparity between what the client wants and what is realistic, especially when it comes to blonding. Because of the internet, many clients would come to a salon with a photo from Pinterest or Instagram in hand, thinking that they can get the same gorgeous blonde hair when they walk out of the salon.
As professionals, we want to do everything within our power to make sure they don’t go running to the next salon. After all, our business relies on them. But how can we provide them what they want without compromising the health of their hair and our reputation?
We’ve spoken to three Holistic Hair Stylists on how they handle such situations, and the techniques they use to create healthy, beautiful blondes.
Balayage & Blonding Tips
Tip #1: Be honest with your client.
How many times have you encountered a Level 2 client wanting to be a blonde but does not want to go through the brassy stage? Majority of clients are unaware of the stages of blonding, so as the professional it is ultimately our responsibility to educate them.
“I have this conversation all the time. Regardless if it’s virgin hair or previously colored hair, you cannot go from brown to blonde without passing through the fiery gates of red, orange, and yellow,” says Jolie Faulkner, owner and stylist at Ever Green Salon and Barbering Company. “Part of our obligation as a professional is to help manage clients’ expectations versus the reality of their particular situation.”
“Is it possible? Yes. Would I recommend it? No,” according toMeredith Blake, senior hairstylist at Abloom Salon. The Internet and social media have made it more difficult for hairstylists to say no to a client. “In this day and age, hairstylists are pushed to make “magical changes” in a makeover format to please clients’ ever-changing minds and the Internet’s pressure to be the best. Clients have access to a portal (social media) in which they are sold on the idea that they can be blonde or get a fantasy color within one session.”
So what can you do when you encounter such clients? Leah Michael Taylor, owner and stylist at Smoke + Mirrors Handcrafted Hair, recommends being blunt and realistic with your clients. “You have to be honest with your client as soon as they sit in their chair. They need to know all of the possibilities that can arise on this journey, explaining that it is a “color correction.” With that being said, the stylist has to address each step as they come. Once the hair reaches its max for that session, make sure to formulate the proper toner to avoid those ugly tones that will most definitely arise.”
Meredith follows a four-step consultation process to decide whether she should go for something drastic or create something subtler, and determine the sessions needed to get them to their goal:
Determine Goals and Discuss Lifestyle. Find out if they are using ‘clean’ products at home, even professional but unclean products can leave residue and chemicals in the hair that can interrupt the lightening process.
Discuss process and home care. Are they committed to coming in monthly for toners and treatments?
Price accordingly. A drastic change means 5-8 hours of work, subtle means 2-4 hours of work. The price difference might steer your client into the healthier direction.
Finally, ALWAYS WORK WITH INTEGRITY.
Tip #2: Use a non-toxic lightener.
The lightener you use plays a huge part in preserving the health and integrity of your client’s hair. Is it full of toxic chemicals that can further damage hair? Avoiding lighteners that contain ammonia can save you from having to do additional treatments after lifting the hair. Ammonia is an aggressive chemical that blasts open the cuticle, damaging it.
“My favorite lightener for heavy lift painting is Hbleach,” shares Meredith. “Hbleach has a creamy consistency, its full of nourishing ingredients, and it doesn’t smell harsh the way every other lightener does.”
Oway Hbleach is the first ammonia-free cream lightener that uses the nourishing properties of Kukui Butter and pure essential oils from Lavender, Perilla and Dates to keep the hair hydrated and protected while processing. These ingredients also give it a creamy, controllable consistency that makes it ideal for any lightening technique, adds Jolie. “The consistency allows me to go from open air balayage to foils with just changing the ratio and strength of developer to lightener. I can create any look without damaging the hair.
“However, it’s also important to remember that because it’s ammonia-free, it may take more time for hair to lift to the desired level.” Slow and steady wins the race, according to Leah.
Tip #3: Choose a technique that gives a blended, effortless look.
Balayage is a blonding and hairpainting technique that has become incredibly popular in recent years due to the natural effect it gives. Later on, balayage has evolved to describe that highly sought-after lived-in look – which can be achieved in different ways.
Leah calls hers Effortless Lived-In Color. “My goal is to create effortless color for the client that ages well. Knowing what the client is willing to put into their hair is so important. Each time they come back, there needs to be another consultation to see where they are and customize to their needs every time. Sometimes that means painting and sometimes a couple foils and a toner are the only thing needed.”
For Jolie, it’s all about creating dimensional color in an efficient manner. Called 3X3X3, “it refers to the foil count around the hairline, part line, and area of the back-parietal ridge. The numbers are interchangeable but it’s just what I use to describe the technique. Once you have the 3X3X3 foils in place, the rest is left to creative freedom and different techniques for the interior of the hair are encouraged. This guarantees a blended and finished look no matter what.”
On the other hand, Meredith’s application technique, Balanced Balayage, is gaining a passionate following on social media. “Balanced Balayage has been 5 years in the making. Through constant practice, re-inventing and diving into it unforgivingly I have developed something that feels unique for me, for clients and for the stylists that I teach. What I’ve developed is unique to the holistic hairdresser, because it’s derived from the idea that natural beauty is the only beauty. Balanced Balayage is a technique that is purely open-air painting: a brush, a non-toxic lightener and your hands. No Foil, No Plastic Wrap. It’s a minimal approach with maximum result. The result being hair that looks how it was naturally meant to look. Almost every client that receives this type of paint says, ‘Wow, now THIS feels like ME.’
“And isn’t that our job? Not to change people too much, but just enough to help them feel like themselves again. A part of themselves that feels true, effortless and beautiful.”
This brings us to one common mistake hairstylists new to blonding and balayage often make: Not using enough tension.
“You want to have strong pressure from the hand holding the hair, and light pressure from the hand applying.” This will give you a flat surface to paint on and avoid causing splotches, explains Jolie.
Meredith agrees. “You have to grasp each section thoroughly, apply a hair oil to each section to create a smooth surface to paint, then have at it! I brace each client for the “pull” and I let the section go in a gentle manner in order to not jerk the client around. I always promise my clients a good head and neck massage after a balayage!” 😉
However as easy as that sounds, handpainting is not for everyone, shares Leah. “If you feel more confident starting out with foils and know you can bust it out with confidence, do it! There are many foiling techniques, too. Also, social media and Youtube are great tools to see what other people are successfully doing out there.”
Tip # 5: Discuss home care.
Unfortunately, many clients do not realize the amount of care and upkeep going blonde entails, until their hair starts to go brassy or roots start to show.
“Home care is just as important as the in-salon service… To help fade, clients have to use a sulfate-free shampoo, hands down. Balayage clients may only be getting their color touched up a couple times a year now, but they may need to schedule a toner with their next haircut to bring that tone back to life. You can also customize a shampoo and conditioner of their choice (i.e. Oway Hmelt Mask) and need by adding the Oway Hmelt Pure Pigments. No matter what, lightened ends need more love and it may also be important to suggest an in-salon conditioning treatment like the Oway Rebuilding Treatment several times a year.”
Apart from staying on top of the toners and treatments, Meredith gives emphasis on the significance of picking a salon and stylist clients can TRUST. “If the stylist’s main goal isn’t to keep/make your hair healthy then run! Also, stay away from heat! Try wet styling, and low heat styles.”
Most importantly, Jolie reminds stylists that clients must be told BEFORE the service what care it will take to maintain their hair. “They must use approved shampoo and conditioners, heat protection when styling, an organic purple shampoo when applicable, toning and refreshing appointments in between. Hair has a lower maintenance look to it these days so clients are going longer between appointments. I encourage them to come in between to clarify and tone. Clarifying is just as important as toning. Blonde hair has less pigment, so environmental and product build up is more visible. I also suggest a shower filter that can keep any mineral build up from causing brassiness.
I always say having blonde hair is like having a dry clean only piece of clothing. It takes extra care to look as good as it did the day you bought it.”
Check out Jolie, Leah and Meredith’s favorite work using Hbleach!
In recent years, more men have become increasingly conscious about beauty and grooming. In fact, men receiving salon color services have increased by 50% since 2008. With this trend growing each year, Statista predicts that by 2024, the men’s grooming market is estimated to be worth $29.14 billion dollars due to the shift in male pampering culture.
In this article, we break down the facts surrounding this trend, and why it’s the perfect opportunity to get involved.
Men’s Grooming Facts & Figures
On average, men receive haircuts every 3.8 weeks, and 43% of them request for color services. These clients typically remain loyal for at least 7 years.
However, for so long, men have thought that hair salons are exclusively for women, and the only place they can go to get their hair done is a barbershop. Unfortunately, this perception is all because of lack of marketing. 81% of salons do not do any men-focused marketing, aside from the fact that men do not have a lot of options when it comes to hair color.
While it’s true that most men do not like spending hours sitting in a chair, they are equally concerned about their hair (greys and hair loss in particular) as women do. This is why we developed Q.color with Original & Mineral.
What is O&M Q.color?
O&M Q.color is a “quick” gel-based color formula that’s filled with amino acids and anti-aging properties. It features 4 intermixable shades that can provide fast, effective grey coverage in under 10 minutes and a developer specifically designed to be used with the Q.color for a natural deposit:
Extreme heat and humidity are the hair’s top enemy.
Whether you’re going on a weekend getaway or a cross-country trip this summer, it’s important to keep your hair healthy and protected. Because you’ll never know who and what you’ll run into while on holiday.
We rounded up the six summer hair care tips every outdoor lover needs to know.
Summer Hair Care Tip #1: Use Products with UV Protection
Use summer hair care products with natural UV protection.
If there’s anything worse than using products with unnecessary chemicals, it’s using them in tandem with the summer sun. The summer heat tends to leave the pores of the skin and scalp open, allowing for further absorption of ingredients in hair products – so make sure your hair and body are absorbing the good stuff!
Biodynamic Green Anise is an all-natural UV protectant that’s great for preventing color fading and dryness. The Green Anise also acts as a filter, which help eliminate cancer-causing free radicals.
In addition to using sun protection products, there are other summer hair care tips that you can practice without products (read on).
Summer Hair Care Tip #2: Wear a hat or hair scarf
Another great summer hair care tip is to opt for a hat, hair scarf, or both. Not only do hats and head scarves provide further UV protection, they also help the hair retain moisture – a big-time summer hair care issue.
Healthy hair starts at the scalp.
Wearing a hat or head scarf also provides the scalp with further UV protection that may be hard to obtain just through summer hair care products. Since the scalp regulates sebum (your hair’s natural oils), it is very important to ensure your scalp is adequately protected.
A damaged scalp can leave hair inadequately nourished for months to come!
Hair scarves also act as damage control for the hair. They keep the hair in place during visits to the beach, where wind from the sea can result in terrible tangles (that you’ll no doubt vigorously brush out on the way to your next summer activity, resulting in further damage and breakage).
Let’s not neglect to mention there are various ways to wear hair scarfs and hats, so you should never run out of ways to protect the hair and scalp, all while rockin’ a fabulous summer style.
Summer Hair Care Tip #3: Wear hair in braids and gentle up-dos
The summer heat and humidity calls for gentle up-dos and stylish braids. We know everyone is loving the top-knot bun style and sock buns, but putting hair up high and tight can cause incredible damage during the summer months, when hair tends to get frizzy and dry.
Messy braids and gentle up-dos will keep the hair from further UV exposure and add another layer of protection for the scalp. Don’t worry about them being perfect – the laid back nature of these summer hairstyles will embrace the natural elements of summer and look fabulous!
Summer Hair Care Tip #4: Wash hair right after exposure
Whether it be after a nice dip in the pool or a long day at the beach, it’s a good idea to wash your hair right after exposure. This will eliminate further UV damage, and wash away any impurities that could stay on the hair. However, when we say wash the hair, we don’t necessarily mean use shampoo.
It’s more than acceptable to cut back on shampooing your hair on a daily basis when the warm weather comes your way. In fact, we recommend it!
Cutting back on shampoo will actually allow your scalp’s oil production to re-balance itself, which is extra important for moisture during summertime weather.
After a trip to the beach, try rinsing the hair in the shower first, followed by giving yourself a scalp message. A nice 30-second scalp massage will exfoliate old cells, increase scalp circulation to promote hair growth, and help remove any product build-up.
Then, try gently working your hair’s natural oils from the scalp down to the mid-shaft and ends. Medium to long hair lengths should also try just applying conditioner to the mid-shaft and ends.
If you do decide to shampoo your hair,Oway’s Sebum Balance Hair Bath is the perfect shampoo for keeping the scalp’s natural balance, thanks to the botanical blend of Biodynamic Sage, Organic Euphrasia Extract, and Ethical Teak + Mahogany Wood. It’s also available in travel size so you can take it whenever, wherever.
Summer Hair Care Tip #5: Eliminate Mean Green Pool Hair
Everyday exposure to chlorinated swimming pools can be very damaging to your hair. Although it can happen to anyone, men and women with shades of natural or colored blonde are prone to chlorine damage and discoloration.
Here’s our little secret summer hair care tip: Add moisture to your hair prior to jumping in the pool!
Think of your hair like a sponge, ready to soak up any water in its path.
If you put a dry sponge into the pool, it’ll absorb more of the chemicals than a wet sponge, that has already been saturated in water.
With that being said, wet the hair and/or put in a leave-in conditioner prior to going to the pool. If you do not have a leave-in conditioner, you can use a regular conditioner, as well.
If you’re a frequent swimmer or have very blonde hair, we suggest going even further with your summer hair care.
Summer Hair Care Tip #6: Deep Conditioning Treatments
Summer hair ailments like dryness and split-ends can be helped with the inclusion of deep conditioning treatments in your summer hair regimen.
Before establishing your hair regimen and choosing the “best” summer hair care products, you must first determine your hair type and texture.
To choose a hair product without knowing your hair type is like buying a pair of shoes without knowing your shoe size – it can be very damaging.
To help determine your hair texture and what it lacks in the summer, ask your hair stylist to do conduct a Wet Stretch Test. This test will allow them to make the proper summer hair care recommendations for your hair type.
Making the right hair care choices can enhance your beauty inside and out. These summer hair care tips will allow you to feel and look confident through the harsh summer months with healthy, shiny hair.
Check out our summer hair care recommendations below!
Chignon is a French word that means ‘bun’. This classic updo is generally done by creating a bun at the back of the head, but there are several ways of doing this wedding hair favorite. We teamed up with Becky Huffman of Wildflower Hair Studio to demonstrate how you can create this popular bridal ‘do using our O&M Spring Wedding Kit.
How to Create a Bridal Chignon
1. Prep the hair with O&M Atonic Thickening Spritz to give the hair some volume and texture. This non-toxic thickening spray is perfect for setting a nice foundation for building the chignon, especially for fine and medium-density hair.
PRO TIP: Always be mindful of the hair texture when prepping the hair to ensure the longevity of the chignon.
2. Part the hair according to what your client desires with a tail comb. Then separate the hair in front starting from the end of the part down to the ear, and clip away.
3. Next, take a small section at the crown and carefully backcomb the hair, then take another section right behind it, joining it with the previous section.
Repeat the backcombing and spritz some O&M Original Queenie in between to create some height and softness through the crown.
4. Gently smooth the surface with the O&M Detangler Brush, making sure not to take away the height and cushion you’ve created.
5. Spray the top layer with O&M Frizzy Logic Shine Spray to smooth and control flyaways, as well give the hair some hold and a gorgeous luster.
6. Once that’s done, gather the rest of the hair to create a nice and tight low ponytail.
PRO TIP: We recommend using two elastics for the ponytail. This ensures that the ponytail stays in place in case the other elastic breaks.
7. Take small sections of the ponytail, gently clipping up the rest.
8. Then, backcomb each section halfway down to create shape. Spray O&M Original Queenie in between sections.
PRO TIP: The O&M Original Queenie is a firm hold spray that doesn’t leave any undesirable flakes on the hair. Some stylists use a sock bun or donut bun, and lay the ponytail over it to create the shape. But if you don’t have any of those, don’t worry – because O&M Original Queenie is perfect for giving the volume needed to create a chignon.
9. Smooth out the flyways, then gather the bottom of the ponytail, tying it with two elastics. 10. Flip the ponytail and secure the ends using a few bobby pins. Spritz the hair with O&M Frizzy Logic Shine Spray once again to tame some flyaway pieces and add shine.
11. To make sure there are no gaps in the bun, use the tail of of your comb to go in and fix any splits and gaps.
12. Next, take the hair in front of the ear and spray a little bit of Original Queenie in the direction of the hair. Comb and pull that panel across the top of your chignon, then pin. Repeat on the other side.
13. Hide the remaining tails by tucking them underneath the bun with a bobby pin.
14. Add some floral or sparkles and voila! Your bride is ready to walk the aisle.
Re-create this elegant chignon using these products from O&M!
Every client dreams of having strong, healthy hair that doesn’t turn into a frizzy mess when styled or when there’s a sudden change in weather. Unfortunately, not everyone has the luxury to sit in the salon for an hour and get a hair treatment.
But what if we tell you, there’s a treatment that can bring your client’s tresses back to its optimum condition in just 15 minutes?
With only your Oway Hrestore Protein Treatment Spray and Infrared Remedy Iron, you can transform dry, damaged strands into shiny, healthy hair. This treatment also helps increase the longevity of your client’s hair color as it refills the hair with vegetable plant-based proteins and color protective amino acids.
As stylists, we know that protein and color are heavily attracted to one another. Protein creates the canvas for the color, so without proteins the color will fade in no time.
One way to restore lost proteins in the hair is to do a protein treatment. But unlike other treatments, Oway Hrestore Protein Spray has a light molecular weight, allowing it to penetrate deep into the hair. It has a pH of 4.0 – 5.0, which help balance the hair’s pH level as well.
Meanwhile, the ultrasonic vibrations and the cold fusion technology in Infrared Remedy Iron pushes the nutrients further into the cortex, reinforcing the hair. The iron does not use heat, as heat can cause the cuticles to rise, creating openings for color molecules to escape.
How to Use Hrestore with Infrared Remedy Iron
Perform the Mist Test to check if the iron is working.
Mist Hrestore onto towel-dried hair so Hrestore doesn’t get diluted and hair absorbs all nutrients.
Spray Hrestore again onto section of hair, then pass the iron through the hair three times on each side, making sure to flip the iron so the plate goes on both sides of the hair. You want to make sure the nutrients are thoroughly absorbed by the hair.
Leave it in. You can also perform this treatment before applying your toner on dry hair or over a gloss to lock in nutrients.
With spring and summer coming up, many clients will start their transition to blonde. This is the perfect opportunity to introduce this treatment to clients as ultraviolet radiation risks and environmental stresses are at their peak during this time of year. Furthermore, blonding takes out pigment, which disturbs the porosity of the hair. The Hrestore treatment will help strengthen it and bring back its porosity by refilling gaps in the hair.
As holistic hair stylists, we need to understand that no hair fibers are alike. In fact, your clients’ hair may have already changed since you last saw them due to the changes in their styling routine, medication, and weather.
For the hair to get the most out of treatments, you need to determine the hair’s porosity. Doing so ensures that you get beautiful, long-lasting results every time. But what does hair porosity mean?
What is Hair Porosity?
Hair porosity is the hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. But while porosity is mostly genetic, factors such as heat, environmental stress, and chemical treatments can cause hair aging and significantly alter its structure.
As the hair fibers “age”, the cuticles begin to crack and unravel, exposing the cortex of the hair to various stresses. This also results in the hair absorbing too much or too little moisture then quickly releasing it.
Types of Porosity
There are three types of hair porosity.
Low Porosity – Cuticles are tightly clamped down, preventing moisture from entering the hair. Low porosity hair often take longer to saturate with water, including natural oils. As a result, they sit on the hair, causing buildup.
Normal Porosity – A delicate balance between low and high porosity, this type of hair can hold moisture for an extended period of time. Therefore, it hold styles well and accepts color more easily and evenly.
High Porosity – Highly porous hair has raised cuticles, allowing moisture to go in and out quickly. This type is often characterized by frizzy, straw-like hair.
The Hair Porosity Tests
There are a few simple ways to determine where your clients’ hair falls on the porosity spectrum.
The Wet Stretch Test
The Wet Stretch Test not only allows you to determine the hair’s porosity but also helps you ascertain what’s missing in the hair – whether protein, moisture, or a combination of both.
Gather about 10 strands of hair and spray with water. We highly recommend doing this in tiny sections from different areas of the head, such as the front hairline, nape, crown and the temple area.
Hold hair firmly with both hands between the thumb and finger.
With hand closest to you, lightly stretch hair away from client’s head.
If the hair stretches and returns then it is BALANCED.
If the hair stretches and does not return to its original form: it is lacking PROTEIN.
If the hair does not stretch at all: it is lacking MOISTURE.
It the hair stretches and breaks; it is lacking both MOISTURE and PROTEIN
Although the Wet Stretch Test will provide you more accurate results, you can also go by feel of the hair when checking for porosity.
If hair feels stringy, limp, or even sticky; then it will need PROTEIN.
If the hair feels tough and hard, then it has too much PROTEIN.
If the hair feels and looks tangled, dry, and/or brittle; it needs MOISTURE.
If the hair is overly soft but is breaking and won’t style, it has too much MOISTURE.
The Hair Shed Test
The Hair Shed Test is another useful way to determine hair porosity. Simply drop hair that’s been shed because of you combing their hair into a glass of water.
If the hair floats, it is low porosity. If the hair slowly sinks, it has normal porosity, but if it sinks immediately, the hair is high porosity.
The Water Shed Test
To determine your client’s hair porosity type, spray a small section of the hair with water and observe how the hair reacts.
Water remains on the hair strand in low porosity hair while high porosity hair absorbs water quickly.
Porosity Hair Care Treatments
After testing for porosity, it is important to look into hair balancing treatments for every type. Below are some salon tips and tricks when working with and caring for each porosity level.
Low Porosity Hair Care
Be sure to evenly distribute your hair care products throughout the hair. Be sure not to apply too much product either. • Apply products to damp, but not soaked hair. • Use a sulfate-free shampoo. We also highly recommend using a clarifying treatment to remove any product buildup. Oway Htech Pre-Color Clarifying Shampoo prepares the hair for a technical service by gently removing product residues sitting on the hair.
Normal Porosity Hair Care Environmental stresses can still alter the hair’s porosity. Performing regular in salon deep-conditioning treatments helps keep the hair balanced and healthy.
High Porosity Hair Care
Always use minimal heat or none at all when dealing with high porosity hair. Dry the hair naturally if possible.
Heat keeps the cuticles raised so rinse hair with cold water instead to seal and smooth the cuticles.
Refrain from over-combing the hair with fine-toothed combs. Instead, use a large-toothed comb to detangle when hair is damp.
Before or after a color or lightening service, spritz some protein treatment spray infused with vegetable proteins to replenish lost keratins and lipids in the hair. Protein treatments like Oway Hrestore give the hair the strength it needs to undergo a technical service. It can also be used with our Infrared Remedy Iron as a standalone hair treatment to seal cuticles.
With these information in hand, you can now properly assess the health of your clients’ hair and what products best suit their needs. Most importantly, these tips and methods will help prolong the effects of hair treatments and color, leaving your clients satisfied with your salon services and forge a stronger client-stylist relationship.
Rebalance your client's hair porosity with these professional salon products!
Although relatively new, balayage is arguably the most popular hairpainting technique right now. But because of its novelty, there hasn’t been any rules on how to go about it. As a result, many hairstylists are left grasping for straws when a client comes in asking for a balayage.
Fortunately, balayage is a freeform color technique and, thus, can be easily done when armed with basic knowledge. Leah Taylor, Educator for Simply Organic Beaity and Owner + Senior Stylist at Smoke + Mirrors Salon in Baltimore, Maryland, shares with us her hairpainting tips and tricks on how to create the perfect balayage without foils.
Balayage Tips and Tricks
1. Choose a lightener with great consistency.
Your choice of lightener is key in hairpainting. Leah recommends Oway Hbleach for the nourishing ingredients of Kukui Butter and pure essential oils in it, which give the lightener a creamy, buttery consistency. As the stylist, using a product that has a controllable consistency like Oway Hbleach makes it easy for you to brush and work with the hair. Hbleach is also great for open air surface painting as well as doing heavier more ombre applications.
A haircut can change the entire look and the placement of your highlights so it’s important to discuss your client’s plans during the consultation. For instance, if she has bangs and wants to grow it out, you might want to add a bit of lightening so it blends well with the rest of the hair as it grows. Think about how her highlights are going to look in, say, a month or six months.
3. Highlight areas where the sun naturally hits the hair.
Is your client going for a beachy all-over sunkissed look? Or want to be lighter and brighter all-over? Ombre? Or maybe more accented highs and lows? Consultation is everything!
During the consultation, look at how the light naturally highlights and lowlights the hair as you comb through. This will help you see where you want your focus points to be.
4. Consider the size of sections, type of product, and technique you’re going to use when choosing your developer.
When the sections are large and non-isolated (like in foil highlights), you need a higher volume to achieve lighter results.
Many stylists get scared of the idea of using high-volume developers, and for good reason. When used incorrectly, it can damage the hair. But because Oway Hbleach and Oway Hcatalysts are super creamy and extra nourishing on the hair, they give the hair extra protection during lightening processes. However, always be sure to keep an eye on it while it’s processing.
5. Areas around the face lighten faster compared to the back.
The hair around the back processes longer than the hair around the face so, depending on the look you’re going for, it’s best to start painting from the back to get even, natural highlights.
Note, however, that the hair around the hairline, both in the front and at the nape, are usually more fine so you may need to change your developer levels around those areas. If you’re starting from back, rinse that area out first if need be, while the front continues to process longer.
6. Make sure the product is evenly distributed on the hair.
Sections with too much product will process longer than the rest of the hair because it’s kept moist longer, causing hotspots and uneven highlights. To avoid oversaturating the hair, start painting halfway down, then soften the highlight with a brush while making your way up. Then, smooth down (not squeeze) any excess product to the ends, adding more when needed. Breaking open the ends also helps distribute the product evenly – a useful technique when you’re aiming for heavier blonde ends/ombre look.
7. Don’t forget to paint underneath as well.
Make sure you’re softening the hair underneath to avoid hard lines.
8. Tension is everything.
You always want to keep the hair taut while painting. It gives you a flat surface to paint on, allowing you to create a soft, smooth blend.
Most of the time, clients’ heads tend to drop and move back while you’re painting their hair. It’s good to remind them once in a while that you need to keep your tension to make sure the product gets to where it should be.
9. Don’t be afraid to play with different patterns.
When you get to the top, drop the remaining hair down so you can see how it falls on the head. Doing so will help you decide what kind of hairpainting pattern to use. Some stylists prefer to do bricklay patterns or paint from the front to back and vice versa. Every stylist has a different method of doing things and it’s up to you to decide which technique you’re most comfortable using.
10. Use the cowlicks of the hair as your guide on how to accent the hair.
As soon as you drop the rest of the hair down, observe how the hair falls on the head and where the light hits. Otherwise, if you’re accentuating an area that should be a lowlight you will get a weird bright piece on top. After examining the hair, section according to how it splits naturally.
11. If you’re having issues creating a soft blend, do a zig-zag pattern.
The zig-zag pattern helps break up the highlights and lowlights and create a natural-looking blend after painting.
12. As soon as you reach your desired lift, remove the saran wrap.
Doing so exposes the hair to air and reduces heat, allowing for the front pieces to catch up with the back. In the tutorial, because the front pieces were more of a fine texture and had some leftover lightened ends, those sections caught up within 20-30 minutes.
13. Finish the process with a pH-balancing shampoo.
Bleaching and color treatments throw off the hair and scalp’s natural pH balance. For this class, Leah used Oway Hbalance Post-Color Neutralizing Shampoo without conditioner to rebalance the hair’s pH and neutralize any alkaline residues.
Hair loss and scalp disorders affect so many people and it is so disheartening to those experiencing it. As a holistic hair stylist, never did I imagine that my main flow of business would be guests with hair loss and scalp issues. It is rewarding and fulfilling to not only help them regain hair but also improve their lives and show them a healthier lifestyle that will support their journey to healthy hair growth and scalp.
But like any other treatment, committing to a treatment plan is essential to see actual results. And it all begins with a consultation.
The key to treating hair loss and scalp issues is to perform a thorough consultation with guests. Not only does it help determine a treatment plan, it also helps to understand the cause of the hair loss, such as medicine, lifestyle, heredity, styling habits, diet, among others.
The Oway Tricho-analyzer is the perfect tool to use during the consultation as it provides a good picture (literally) of what is going on with the scalp. It helps gauge the number of treatments necessary to help remedy whatever issue is at hand. It magnifies the scalp up to 200 times and projects a clear image that both you and your guest can see and discuss. This also allows clients to follow their progress throughout the treatment journey.
As a hair loss and scalp expert, I provide my clients personalized treatments. Each scalp condition is unique, thus treatments should be customized according to each condition. I am glad I found Oway because its complete line of Hair Loss and Scalp Treatments allows me to address various types of issues.
Once a treatment plan is in place, I determine the amount of product to be used on the location of concern. If the issue is localized in one area, treat that area and around the outside of it.
PRO TIP: Don’t waste product and time by treating a guest’s entire head when the problem area is located in one spot. It is important to make a profile for each guest to keep track of their treatments. A great way to keep you and your guests on the same page with the treatment plan is to jot down a quote of what and how many treatments you are estimating they will need, and what take home products will support their treatments.
A good idea is to write numbers on their take home product labels to show the order in which their regimen should follow, or like me, use recycled paper stickers on products to avoid confusion.
Keeping your hair loss and scalp treatment appointments in a private setting is something your guests will really appreciate. If you don’t have a closed space, invest in a dressing screen that can be pulled out for treatment appointments, and then folded and tucked away afterwards. Remember to take headshots to show the treatment progress to show future guests.
Here are 3 examples of results I have achieved with the Oway treatments on my guests:
The Purifying Treatment is highly effective in eradicating Malassezia globosa, the dandruff-causing fungus that attacks the scalp. Then we move on to the Hair Loss Treatment, which uses Denisplant, Hair Spa Complex, and Vegetable Stem Cells to revive the hair follicle cells and stimulate hair growth.
Boho Pomade – lightweight strong-hold styling wax for adding texture
Benefits of Hair Loss and Scalp Treatments
With the Oway Hair Loss and Scalp Treatments, you will be helping people get their self-confidence back. You may even be the reason for their healthier lifestyle changes that, more often than not, occur after the treatments.
These treatments have allowed me to have a whole new kind of experience with my guests. A greater connection is formed, and I truly feel a part of their journey to achieve great results with their challenges. This is just a sliver of what Oway Hair Loss and Scalp Treatments entail.
Bailey Simon is a cosmetologist and owner of Periwinkle Beauty Studio. She is also a Louisiana state licensed cosmetology educator, and an educator and independent contractor for Simply Organic Beauty.
Since 2003, Bailey has been involved in the beauty industry. She specializes in hair coloring and cutting, with an expertise in treating hair loss and scalp disorders. After completing cosmetology school at Aveda Institute, she pursued an educator program with Vanguard – a Paul Mitchell school, and Simply Organic Beauty’s Train the Trainer course. Currently she is working on finalizing her business degree.
As one of the most dedicated and talented members of Simply Organic’s Holistic Hair Tribe, Bailey was chosen as Educator of the Month for April 2017, and has been featured in Fall Trends Guide for 2016. She’s passionate about guiding others on a holistic journey with their overall health, and supporting and healing those who are dealing with hair loss and scalp disorders. Bailey resides in Geismar, Louisiana.
Autumn leaves are falling and we know we are at the brink of a new season. Fall has many significant meanings to many hairdressers – it is time to brighten up our clients world with fresh color. Just as the vibrant rich reds, ambers and oranges of the changing leaves, we would like to bring some of these rich tones to our color world and clientele.
All of us know that red hair color can present its own challenges. Why is my regrowth the beautiful vibrant red I desired but the ends and midshaft still so brown with the red not as visible? Why does the red seem to fade so quickly from the midshaft and ends? My client’s regrowth area seems to be too warm, almost hot, why would this happen? How much brown should I add to my formula to achieve grey coverage while still not browning out the reflect?
These challenges are something many colorists have faced and have to overcome to create beautiful rich reds for their clients.
How to Achieve Perfect Grey Coverage
Let us first address reds and how to achieve perfect grey coverage at the same time.
Higher percentages of grey will require other tones to be added to the formula in order to have a vibrant yet solid grey coverage.
Without neutral or gold added to the formula it would be like putting red paint on a white wall, giving a hollow color and some instances a pink tone or hue.
A good rule of thumb would be:
Note the percentage of grey since it will dictate what percent of neutral base must be to added to the formula. For high percentages of grey, at least half of the formula needs to include a natural/neutral series base.
Then, midshaft and ends can be analyzed to see what is missing. Rarely the natural base will fade and you are able to mix a formula with the straight red to add rich vibrancy back into those ends.
There may be instances of higher percentages of grey but the desired result is extremely vibrant. In this scenario, your professional judgement will dictate how much to adjust the neutral base without compromising the coverage.
To tackle a situation where the regrowth is the exact shade desired, yet now the ends look darker and too brown, it may be necessary to slightly purify the midshaft and the ends before applying your new formula. This will allow you to match the beautiful vibrancy of the regrowth and remove some of the excessive brown blocking the red’s vibrancy.
Fadage can be a problem when creating and maintaining the ultimate red.
In some situations, you may want to re-pigmentize the hair if your starting base is extremely faded or you are covering previously blonded ends. Another tip would be to also process for a longer amount of time in this scenario. Always be sure to send your client home with a corresponding shampoo and conditioner to protect their new color. Color Protection Hair Bath, Mask, and the Color Protection Veil will all assist with their new color adding longevity to your fun Fall warm hair color.
After a detailed consultation, our client decides to completely transition their existing hair color. Where do we start first? What do we do? What are our options? First don’t panic. Decolorizing hair and transitioning to a new hair color can be as easy as 1, 2, 3. So, take a deep breath!
Whether highlighting or performing an all over, decolorization/corrective color is a process that some fear. How do we get from such a dark level to much lighter colored locks? You will need to highlight or decolorize with a bleaching system.
Decolorization is a process
An all over decolorization is a process and we must remember not to be too hard on ourselves. Whether fixing someone else’s mistake or just designing a new look for a client, you must realize that this is truly corrective color and may not be a quick fix. This must be discussed with the client ahead of time in the initial consultation so there are no miscommunications. Some corrective color services can take more than one visit to fully achieve the tone and level desired. Highlighting or balayage services, on the other hand, are ways to introduce some lighter pieces throughout the hair without such a lengthy process. Highlighting can blend or add dimension to a monochromatic color.
Natural melanin (eumelanin) in the hair is an equal blend of all three primary colors: blue, red, and yellow. It is responsible for creating brown and black hair. The more eumelanin a person has will determine how brown or black the hair will be. A medium amount of eumelanin the hair will be brown. Someone with a lot of eumelanin will appear black but someone with a minimal amount of eumelanin has blonde hair.
Natural red hair has more pheomelanin (red pigment) and minimal eumelanin (brown or black pigment). Did you ever have that one client who just always seem to appear red no matter what you do or how you formulate? This client has more pheomelanin present in their hair. The less pheomelanin a person has, the less red is visible in their hair color.
When hair is lightened in any way, the warmer tones red and yellow are always exposed.
Blue pigment is the first to leave the hair. To fully understand the lightening process, we must first understand the stages the hair must go through on its journey to becoming the ultimate blonde. When creating the ultimate blonde, we are first removing the primary colors of blue and red, and depending on what level of blonde we are trying to achieve we might also be removing some of the yellow as well.
There are specific tones you will recognize on your journey. Starting at a level 1, our remaining color is blue. Level 2 we see blue/violet; level 3 we see violet; 4 red/violet. Level 5 us red and seems to be where a lot of us have most of our difficulties. Level 6 red/orange; Level 7 is orange like the outside of an orange. Level 8 is yellow orange like the shade of an apricot. Level 9 is yellow like the outside of a banana, and finally level 10 is pale yellow/white like the inside of a banana.
To successfully decolorize the hair, it is always best to go one level lighter than the level you are lifting to in order to achieve the proper foundation for the desired level.
Example: If my desired level is a level 8 and I am starting from a level 6, I know that when I decolorize the hair, I must expose the remaining color to yellow (like the outside of a banana). Creating a visual of fruit or other Items is just a way to help you recognize when you have lifted to the level you desired.
Application is key.
Application is also key to a successful decolorization. Analyze the strand before beginning. Is there color on the ends? Is there a virgin new growth? What is the porosity of the hair? We know that virgin hair will lift quickly but hair with artificial pigment will require much more timing.
When dealing with different situations on the same head we must treat them differently.
Beginning at the midshaft before applying to the virgin hair will ensure an even decolorization process.
Don’t be afraid of using different volumes on the same head. When highlighting, use a lower volume in the back and as you work your way to the front try remix with a higher volume so that both areas finish lightening at the same time.
If you have not achieved an even shade of remaining pigment, it might be necessary to reapply the bleach.
Always pay attention to the porosity and overall condition of the hair before reapplying bleach. If you have an even bleaching result then your final color will be even. Sometimes additional bleaching is not doable because the hair is compromised. Use your professional judgment but this time realize you may not achieve the desired level in this visit. Corrective hair color is a process so do not be too tough on yourself.
Once hair is decolorized to the proper remaining color, you will have to choose whether you would like to enhance your final color or if you would like to refine the remaining color.
Choosing a tone opposite on the color wheel will help you refine unwanted warmth. To enhance the tone remaining after lightening, choose a tonal shade on the same side of the color wheel.
After a decolorizing service (highlighting or corrective work), you will want to thoroughly wash out the bleach with Oway Hbalance Shampoo and follow with Oway Hmilk No Stress to equalize the porosity before toning.
Toning with the chosen shade plus Oway Htone can take anywhere from 5 to 20 minutes. Always be cognitive of the porosity in the hair when choosing a toner.
Hmilk can also be used to equalize your porosity before toning. When toning at the shampoo bowl, you will want to remember to thoroughly towel dry the hair before applying the toner. Excess water can dilute your toner and can cause an uneven result.
So see, it is as easy as 1,2,3 and always remember the education department is here to offer additional support.