Extreme heat and humidity are the hair’s top enemy.
Whether you’re going on a weekend getaway or a cross-country trip this summer, it’s important to keep your hair healthy and protected. Because you’ll never know who and what you’ll run into while on holiday.
We rounded up the six summer hair care tips every outdoor lover needs to know.
Summer Hair Care Tip #1: Use Products with UV Protection
Use summer hair care products with natural UV protection.
If there’s anything worse than using products with unnecessary chemicals, it’s using them in tandem with the summer sun. The summer heat tends to leave the pores of the skin and scalp open, allowing for further absorption of ingredients in hair products – so make sure your hair and body are absorbing the good stuff!
Biodynamic Green Anise is an all-natural UV protectant that’s great for preventing color fading and dryness. The Green Anise also acts as a filter, which help eliminate cancer-causing free radicals.
In addition to using sun protection products, there are other summer hair care tips that you can practice without products (read on).
Summer Hair Care Tip #2: Wear a hat or hair scarf
Another great summer hair care tip is to opt for a hat, hair scarf, or both. Not only do hats and head scarves provide further UV protection, they also help the hair retain moisture – a big-time summer hair care issue.
Healthy hair starts at the scalp.
Wearing a hat or head scarf also provides the scalp with further UV protection that may be hard to obtain just through summer hair care products. Since the scalp regulates sebum (your hair’s natural oils), it is very important to ensure your scalp is adequately protected.
A damaged scalp can leave hair inadequately nourished for months to come!
Hair scarves also act as damage control for the hair. They keep the hair in place during visits to the beach, where wind from the sea can result in terrible tangles (that you’ll no doubt vigorously brush out on the way to your next summer activity, resulting in further damage and breakage).
Let’s not neglect to mention there are various ways to wear hair scarfs and hats, so you should never run out of ways to protect the hair and scalp, all while rockin’ a fabulous summer style.
Summer Hair Care Tip #3: Wear hair in braids and gentle up-dos
The summer heat and humidity calls for gentle up-dos and stylish braids. We know everyone is loving the top-knot bun style and sock buns, but putting hair up high and tight can cause incredible damage during the summer months, when hair tends to get frizzy and dry.
Messy braids and gentle up-dos will keep the hair from further UV exposure and add another layer of protection for the scalp. Don’t worry about them being perfect – the laid back nature of these summer hairstyles will embrace the natural elements of summer and look fabulous!
Summer Hair Care Tip #4: Wash hair right after exposure
Whether it be after a nice dip in the pool or a long day at the beach, it’s a good idea to wash your hair right after exposure. This will eliminate further UV damage, and wash away any impurities that could stay on the hair. However, when we say wash the hair, we don’t necessarily mean use shampoo.
It’s more than acceptable to cut back on shampooing your hair on a daily basis when the warm weather comes your way. In fact, we recommend it!
Cutting back on shampoo will actually allow your scalp’s oil production to re-balance itself, which is extra important for moisture during summertime weather.
After a trip to the beach, try rinsing the hair in the shower first, followed by giving yourself a scalp message. A nice 30-second scalp massage will exfoliate old cells, increase scalp circulation to promote hair growth, and help remove any product build-up.
Then, try gently working your hair’s natural oils from the scalp down to the mid-shaft and ends. Medium to long hair lengths should also try just applying conditioner to the mid-shaft and ends.
If you do decide to shampoo your hair,Oway’s Sebum Balance Hair Bath is the perfect shampoo for keeping the scalp’s natural balance, thanks to the botanical blend of Biodynamic Sage, Organic Euphrasia Extract, and Ethical Teak + Mahogany Wood. It’s also available in travel size so you can take it whenever, wherever.
Summer Hair Care Tip #5: Eliminate Mean Green Pool Hair
Everyday exposure to chlorinated swimming pools can be very damaging to your hair. Although it can happen to anyone, men and women with shades of natural or colored blonde are prone to chlorine damage and discoloration.
Here’s our little secret summer hair care tip: Add moisture to your hair prior to jumping in the pool!
Think of your hair like a sponge, ready to soak up any water in its path.
If you put a dry sponge into the pool, it’ll absorb more of the chemicals than a wet sponge, that has already been saturated in water.
With that being said, wet the hair and/or put in a leave-in conditioner prior to going to the pool. If you do not have a leave-in conditioner, you can use a regular conditioner, as well.
If you’re a frequent swimmer or have very blonde hair, we suggest going even further with your summer hair care.
Summer Hair Care Tip #6: Deep Conditioning Treatments
Summer hair ailments like dryness and split-ends can be helped with the inclusion of deep conditioning treatments in your summer hair regimen.
Before establishing your hair regimen and choosing the “best” summer hair care products, you must first determine your hair type and texture.
To choose a hair product without knowing your hair type is like buying a pair of shoes without knowing your shoe size – it can be very damaging.
To help determine your hair texture and what it lacks in the summer, ask your hair stylist to do conduct a Wet Stretch Test. This test will allow them to make the proper summer hair care recommendations for your hair type.
Making the right hair care choices can enhance your beauty inside and out. These summer hair care tips will allow you to feel and look confident through the harsh summer months with healthy, shiny hair.
Check out our summer hair care recommendations below!
Chignon is a French word that means ‘bun’. This classic updo is generally done by creating a bun at the back of the head, but there are several ways of doing this wedding hair favorite. We teamed up with Becky Huffman of Wildflower Hair Studio to demonstrate how you can create this popular bridal ‘do using our O&M Spring Wedding Kit.
How to Create a Bridal Chignon
1. Prep the hair with O&M Atonic Thickening Spritz to give the hair some volume and texture. This non-toxic thickening spray is perfect for setting a nice foundation for building the chignon, especially for fine and medium-density hair.
PRO TIP: Always be mindful of the hair texture when prepping the hair to ensure the longevity of the chignon.
2. Part the hair according to what your client desires with a tail comb. Then separate the hair in front starting from the end of the part down to the ear, and clip away.
3. Next, take a small section at the crown and carefully backcomb the hair, then take another section right behind it, joining it with the previous section.
Repeat the backcombing and spritz some O&M Original Queenie in between to create some height and softness through the crown.
4. Gently smooth the surface with the O&M Detangler Brush, making sure not to take away the height and cushion you’ve created.
5. Spray the top layer with O&M Frizzy Logic Shine Spray to smooth and control flyaways, as well give the hair some hold and a gorgeous luster.
6. Once that’s done, gather the rest of the hair to create a nice and tight low ponytail.
PRO TIP: We recommend using two elastics for the ponytail. This ensures that the ponytail stays in place in case the other elastic breaks.
7. Take small sections of the ponytail, gently clipping up the rest.
8. Then, backcomb each section halfway down to create shape. Spray O&M Original Queenie in between sections.
PRO TIP: The O&M Original Queenie is a firm hold spray that doesn’t leave any undesirable flakes on the hair. Some stylists use a sock bun or donut bun, and lay the ponytail over it to create the shape. But if you don’t have any of those, don’t worry – because O&M Original Queenie is perfect for giving the volume needed to create a chignon.
9. Smooth out the flyways, then gather the bottom of the ponytail, tying it with two elastics. 10. Flip the ponytail and secure the ends using a few bobby pins. Spritz the hair with O&M Frizzy Logic Shine Spray once again to tame some flyaway pieces and add shine.
11. To make sure there are no gaps in the bun, use the tail of of your comb to go in and fix any splits and gaps.
12. Next, take the hair in front of the ear and spray a little bit of Original Queenie in the direction of the hair. Comb and pull that panel across the top of your chignon, then pin. Repeat on the other side.
13. Hide the remaining tails by tucking them underneath the bun with a bobby pin.
14. Add some floral or sparkles and voila! Your bride is ready to walk the aisle.
Re-create this elegant chignon using these products from O&M!
Every client dreams of having strong, healthy hair that doesn’t turn into a frizzy mess when styled or when there’s a sudden change in weather. Unfortunately, not everyone has the luxury to sit in the salon for an hour and get a hair treatment.
But what if we tell you, there’s a treatment that can bring your client’s tresses back to its optimum condition in just 15 minutes?
With only your Oway Hrestore Protein Treatment Spray and Infrared Remedy Iron, you can transform dry, damaged strands into shiny, healthy hair. This treatment also helps increase the longevity of your client’s hair color as it refills the hair with vegetable plant-based proteins and color protective amino acids.
As stylists, we know that protein and color are heavily attracted to one another. Protein creates the canvas for the color, so without proteins the color will fade in no time.
One way to restore lost proteins in the hair is to do a protein treatment. But unlike other treatments, Oway Hrestore Protein Spray has a light molecular weight, allowing it to penetrate deep into the hair. It has a pH of 4.0 – 5.0, which help balance the hair’s pH level as well.
Meanwhile, the ultrasonic vibrations and the cold fusion technology in Infrared Remedy Iron pushes the nutrients further into the cortex, reinforcing the hair. The iron does not use heat, as heat can cause the cuticles to rise, creating openings for color molecules to escape.
How to Use Hrestore with Infrared Remedy Iron
Perform the Mist Test to check if the iron is working.
Mist Hrestore onto towel-dried hair so Hrestore doesn’t get diluted and hair absorbs all nutrients.
Spray Hrestore again onto section of hair, then pass the iron through the hair three times on each side, making sure to flip the iron so the plate goes on both sides of the hair. You want to make sure the nutrients are thoroughly absorbed by the hair.
Leave it in. You can also perform this treatment before applying your toner on dry hair or over a gloss to lock in nutrients.
With spring and summer coming up, many clients will start their transition to blonde. This is the perfect opportunity to introduce this treatment to clients as ultraviolet radiation risks and environmental stresses are at their peak during this time of year. Furthermore, blonding takes out pigment, which disturbs the porosity of the hair. The Hrestore treatment will help strengthen it and bring back its porosity by refilling gaps in the hair.
As holistic hair stylists, we need to understand that no hair fibers are alike. In fact, your clients’ hair may have already changed since you last saw them due to the changes in their styling routine, medication, and weather.
For the hair to get the most out of treatments, you need to determine the hair’s porosity. Doing so ensures that you get beautiful, long-lasting results every time. But what does hair porosity mean?
What is Hair Porosity?
Hair porosity is the hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. But while porosity is mostly genetic, factors such as heat, environmental stress, and chemical treatments can cause hair aging and significantly alter its structure.
As the hair fibers “age”, the cuticles begin to crack and unravel, exposing the cortex of the hair to various stresses. This also results in the hair absorbing too much or too little moisture then quickly releasing it.
Types of Porosity
There are three types of hair porosity.
Low Porosity – Cuticles are tightly clamped down, preventing moisture from entering the hair. Low porosity hair often take longer to saturate with water, including natural oils. As a result, they sit on the hair, causing buildup.
Normal Porosity – A delicate balance between low and high porosity, this type of hair can hold moisture for an extended period of time. Therefore, it hold styles well and accepts color more easily and evenly.
High Porosity – Highly porous hair has raised cuticles, allowing moisture to go in and out quickly. This type is often characterized by frizzy, straw-like hair.
The Hair Porosity Tests
There are a few simple ways to determine where your clients’ hair falls on the porosity spectrum.
The Wet Stretch Test
The Wet Stretch Test not only allows you to determine the hair’s porosity but also helps you ascertain what’s missing in the hair – whether protein, moisture, or a combination of both.
Gather about 10 strands of hair and spray with water. We highly recommend doing this in tiny sections from different areas of the head, such as the front hairline, nape, crown and the temple area.
Hold hair firmly with both hands between the thumb and finger.
With hand closest to you, lightly stretch hair away from client’s head.
If the hair stretches and returns then it is BALANCED.
If the hair stretches and does not return to its original form: it is lacking PROTEIN.
If the hair does not stretch at all: it is lacking MOISTURE.
It the hair stretches and breaks; it is lacking both MOISTURE and PROTEIN
Although the Wet Stretch Test will provide you more accurate results, you can also go by feel of the hair when checking for porosity.
If hair feels stringy, limp, or even sticky; then it will need PROTEIN.
If the hair feels tough and hard, then it has too much PROTEIN.
If the hair feels and looks tangled, dry, and/or brittle; it needs MOISTURE.
If the hair is overly soft but is breaking and won’t style, it has too much MOISTURE.
The Hair Shed Test
The Hair Shed Test is another useful way to determine hair porosity. Simply drop hair that’s been shed because of you combing their hair into a glass of water.
If the hair floats, it is low porosity. If the hair slowly sinks, it has normal porosity, but if it sinks immediately, the hair is high porosity.
The Water Shed Test
To determine your client’s hair porosity type, spray a small section of the hair with water and observe how the hair reacts.
Water remains on the hair strand in low porosity hair while high porosity hair absorbs water quickly.
Porosity Hair Care Treatments
After testing for porosity, it is important to look into hair balancing treatments for every type. Below are some salon tips and tricks when working with and caring for each porosity level.
Low Porosity Hair Care
Be sure to evenly distribute your hair care products throughout the hair. Be sure not to apply too much product either. • Apply products to damp, but not soaked hair. • Use a sulfate-free shampoo. We also highly recommend using a clarifying treatment to remove any product buildup. Oway Htech Pre-Color Clarifying Shampoo prepares the hair for a technical service by gently removing product residues sitting on the hair.
Normal Porosity Hair Care Environmental stresses can still alter the hair’s porosity. Performing regular in salon deep-conditioning treatments helps keep the hair balanced and healthy.
High Porosity Hair Care
Always use minimal heat or none at all when dealing with high porosity hair. Dry the hair naturally if possible.
Heat keeps the cuticles raised so rinse hair with cold water instead to seal and smooth the cuticles.
Refrain from over-combing the hair with fine-toothed combs. Instead, use a large-toothed comb to detangle when hair is damp.
Before or after a color or lightening service, spritz some protein treatment spray infused with vegetable proteins to replenish lost keratins and lipids in the hair. Protein treatments like Oway Hrestore give the hair the strength it needs to undergo a technical service. It can also be used with our Infrared Remedy Iron as a standalone hair treatment to seal cuticles.
With these information in hand, you can now properly assess the health of your clients’ hair and what products best suit their needs. Most importantly, these tips and methods will help prolong the effects of hair treatments and color, leaving your clients satisfied with your salon services and forge a stronger client-stylist relationship.
Rebalance your client's hair porosity with these professional salon products!
Although relatively new, balayage is arguably the most popular hairpainting technique right now. But because of its novelty, there hasn’t been any rules on how to go about it. As a result, many hairstylists are left grasping for straws when a client comes in asking for a balayage.
Fortunately, balayage is a freeform color technique and, thus, can be easily done when armed with basic knowledge. Leah Taylor, Educator for Simply Organic Beaity and Owner + Senior Stylist at Smoke + Mirrors Salon in Baltimore, Maryland, shares with us her hairpainting tips and tricks on how to create the perfect balayage without foils.
Balayage Tips and Tricks
1. Choose a lightener with great consistency.
Your choice of lightener is key in hairpainting. Leah recommends Oway Hbleach for the nourishing ingredients of Kukui Butter and pure essential oils in it, which give the lightener a creamy, buttery consistency. As the stylist, using a product that has a controllable consistency like Oway Hbleach makes it easy for you to brush and work with the hair. Hbleach is also great for open air surface painting as well as doing heavier more ombre applications.
A haircut can change the entire look and the placement of your highlights so it’s important to discuss your client’s plans during the consultation. For instance, if she has bangs and wants to grow it out, you might want to add a bit of lightening so it blends well with the rest of the hair as it grows. Think about how her highlights are going to look in, say, a month or six months.
3. Highlight areas where the sun naturally hits the hair.
Is your client going for a beachy all-over sunkissed look? Or want to be lighter and brighter all-over? Ombre? Or maybe more accented highs and lows? Consultation is everything!
During the consultation, look at how the light naturally highlights and lowlights the hair as you comb through. This will help you see where you want your focus points to be.
4. Consider the size of sections, type of product, and technique you’re going to use when choosing your developer.
When the sections are large and non-isolated (like in foil highlights), you need a higher volume to achieve lighter results.
Many stylists get scared of the idea of using high-volume developers, and for good reason. When used incorrectly, it can damage the hair. But because Oway Hbleach and Oway Hcatalysts are super creamy and extra nourishing on the hair, they give the hair extra protection during lightening processes. However, always be sure to keep an eye on it while it’s processing.
5. Areas around the face lighten faster compared to the back.
The hair around the back processes longer than the hair around the face so, depending on the look you’re going for, it’s best to start painting from the back to get even, natural highlights.
Note, however, that the hair around the hairline, both in the front and at the nape, are usually more fine so you may need to change your developer levels around those areas. If you’re starting from back, rinse that area out first if need be, while the front continues to process longer.
6. Make sure the product is evenly distributed on the hair.
Sections with too much product will process longer than the rest of the hair because it’s kept moist longer, causing hotspots and uneven highlights. To avoid oversaturating the hair, start painting halfway down, then soften the highlight with a brush while making your way up. Then, smooth down (not squeeze) any excess product to the ends, adding more when needed. Breaking open the ends also helps distribute the product evenly – a useful technique when you’re aiming for heavier blonde ends/ombre look.
7. Don’t forget to paint underneath as well.
Make sure you’re softening the hair underneath to avoid hard lines.
8. Tension is everything.
You always want to keep the hair taut while painting. It gives you a flat surface to paint on, allowing you to create a soft, smooth blend.
Most of the time, clients’ heads tend to drop and move back while you’re painting their hair. It’s good to remind them once in a while that you need to keep your tension to make sure the product gets to where it should be.
9. Don’t be afraid to play with different patterns.
When you get to the top, drop the remaining hair down so you can see how it falls on the head. Doing so will help you decide what kind of hairpainting pattern to use. Some stylists prefer to do bricklay patterns or paint from the front to back and vice versa. Every stylist has a different method of doing things and it’s up to you to decide which technique you’re most comfortable using.
10. Use the cowlicks of the hair as your guide on how to accent the hair.
As soon as you drop the rest of the hair down, observe how the hair falls on the head and where the light hits. Otherwise, if you’re accentuating an area that should be a lowlight you will get a weird bright piece on top. After examining the hair, section according to how it splits naturally.
11. If you’re having issues creating a soft blend, do a zig-zag pattern.
The zig-zag pattern helps break up the highlights and lowlights and create a natural-looking blend after painting.
12. As soon as you reach your desired lift, remove the saran wrap.
Doing so exposes the hair to air and reduces heat, allowing for the front pieces to catch up with the back. In the tutorial, because the front pieces were more of a fine texture and had some leftover lightened ends, those sections caught up within 20-30 minutes.
13. Finish the process with a pH-balancing shampoo.
Bleaching and color treatments throw off the hair and scalp’s natural pH balance. For this class, Leah used Oway Hbalance Post-Color Neutralizing Shampoo without conditioner to rebalance the hair’s pH and neutralize any alkaline residues.
Hair loss and scalp disorders affect so many people and it is so disheartening to those experiencing it. As a holistic hair stylist, never did I imagine that my main flow of business would be guests with hair loss and scalp issues. It is rewarding and fulfilling to not only help them regain hair but also improve their lives and show them a healthier lifestyle that will support their journey to healthy hair growth and scalp.
But like any other treatment, committing to a treatment plan is essential to see actual results. And it all begins with a consultation.
The key to treating hair loss and scalp issues is to perform a thorough consultation with guests. Not only does it help determine a treatment plan, it also helps to understand the cause of the hair loss, such as medicine, lifestyle, heredity, styling habits, diet, among others.
The Oway Tricho-analyzer is the perfect tool to use during the consultation as it provides a good picture (literally) of what is going on with the scalp. It helps gauge the number of treatments necessary to help remedy whatever issue is at hand. It magnifies the scalp up to 200 times and projects a clear image that both you and your guest can see and discuss. This also allows clients to follow their progress throughout the treatment journey.
As a hair loss and scalp expert, I provide my clients personalized treatments. Each scalp condition is unique, thus treatments should be customized according to each condition. I am glad I found Oway because its complete line of Hair Loss and Scalp Treatments allows me to address various types of issues.
Once a treatment plan is in place, I determine the amount of product to be used on the location of concern. If the issue is localized in one area, treat that area and around the outside of it.
PRO TIP: Don’t waste product and time by treating a guest’s entire head when the problem area is located in one spot. It is important to make a profile for each guest to keep track of their treatments. A great way to keep you and your guests on the same page with the treatment plan is to jot down a quote of what and how many treatments you are estimating they will need, and what take home products will support their treatments.
A good idea is to write numbers on their take home product labels to show the order in which their regimen should follow, or like me, use recycled paper stickers on products to avoid confusion.
Keeping your hair loss and scalp treatment appointments in a private setting is something your guests will really appreciate. If you don’t have a closed space, invest in a dressing screen that can be pulled out for treatment appointments, and then folded and tucked away afterwards. Remember to take headshots to show the treatment progress to show future guests.
Here are 3 examples of results I have achieved with the Oway treatments on my guests:
The Purifying Treatment is highly effective in eradicating Malassezia globosa, the dandruff-causing fungus that attacks the scalp. Then we move on to the Hair Loss Treatment, which uses Denisplant, Hair Spa Complex, and Vegetable Stem Cells to revive the hair follicle cells and stimulate hair growth.
Boho Pomade – lightweight strong-hold styling wax for adding texture
Benefits of Hair Loss and Scalp Treatments
With the Oway Hair Loss and Scalp Treatments, you will be helping people get their self-confidence back. You may even be the reason for their healthier lifestyle changes that, more often than not, occur after the treatments.
These treatments have allowed me to have a whole new kind of experience with my guests. A greater connection is formed, and I truly feel a part of their journey to achieve great results with their challenges. This is just a sliver of what Oway Hair Loss and Scalp Treatments entail.
Bailey Simon is a cosmetologist and owner of Periwinkle Beauty Studio. She is also a Louisiana state licensed cosmetology educator, and an educator and independent contractor for Simply Organic Beauty.
Since 2003, Bailey has been involved in the beauty industry. She specializes in hair coloring and cutting, with an expertise in treating hair loss and scalp disorders. After completing cosmetology school at Aveda Institute, she pursued an educator program with Vanguard – a Paul Mitchell school, and Simply Organic Beauty’s Train the Trainer course. Currently she is working on finalizing her business degree.
As one of the most dedicated and talented members of Simply Organic’s Holistic Hair Tribe, Bailey was chosen as Educator of the Month for April 2017, and has been featured in Fall Trends Guide for 2016. She’s passionate about guiding others on a holistic journey with their overall health, and supporting and healing those who are dealing with hair loss and scalp disorders. Bailey resides in Geismar, Louisiana.
Autumn leaves are falling and we know we are at the brink of a new season. Fall has many significant meanings to many hairdressers – it is time to brighten up our clients world with fresh color. Just as the vibrant rich reds, ambers and oranges of the changing leaves, we would like to bring some of these rich tones to our color world and clientele.
All of us know that red hair color can present its own challenges. Why is my regrowth the beautiful vibrant red I desired but the ends and midshaft still so brown with the red not as visible? Why does the red seem to fade so quickly from the midshaft and ends? My client’s regrowth area seems to be too warm, almost hot, why would this happen? How much brown should I add to my formula to achieve grey coverage while still not browning out the reflect?
These challenges are something many colorists have faced and have to overcome to create beautiful rich reds for their clients.
How to Achieve Perfect Grey Coverage
Let us first address reds and how to achieve perfect grey coverage at the same time.
Higher percentages of grey will require other tones to be added to the formula in order to have a vibrant yet solid grey coverage.
Without neutral or gold added to the formula it would be like putting red paint on a white wall, giving a hollow color and some instances a pink tone or hue.
A good rule of thumb would be:
Note the percentage of grey since it will dictate what percent of neutral base must be to added to the formula. For high percentages of grey, at least half of the formula needs to include a natural/neutral series base.
Then, midshaft and ends can be analyzed to see what is missing. Rarely the natural base will fade and you are able to mix a formula with the straight red to add rich vibrancy back into those ends.
There may be instances of higher percentages of grey but the desired result is extremely vibrant. In this scenario, your professional judgement will dictate how much to adjust the neutral base without compromising the coverage.
To tackle a situation where the regrowth is the exact shade desired, yet now the ends look darker and too brown, it may be necessary to slightly purify the midshaft and the ends before applying your new formula. This will allow you to match the beautiful vibrancy of the regrowth and remove some of the excessive brown blocking the red’s vibrancy.
Fadage can be a problem when creating and maintaining the ultimate red.
In some situations, you may want to re-pigmentize the hair if your starting base is extremely faded or you are covering previously blonded ends. Another tip would be to also process for a longer amount of time in this scenario. Always be sure to send your client home with a corresponding shampoo and conditioner to protect their new color. Color Protection Hair Bath, Mask, and the Color Protection Veil will all assist with their new color adding longevity to your fun Fall warm hair color.
After a detailed consultation, our client decides to completely transition their existing hair color. Where do we start first? What do we do? What are our options? First don’t panic. Decolorizing hair and transitioning to a new hair color can be as easy as 1, 2, 3. So, take a deep breath!
Whether highlighting or performing an all over, decolorization/corrective color is a process that some fear. How do we get from such a dark level to much lighter colored locks? You will need to highlight or decolorize with a bleaching system.
Decolorization is a process
An all over decolorization is a process and we must remember not to be too hard on ourselves. Whether fixing someone else’s mistake or just designing a new look for a client, you must realize that this is truly corrective color and may not be a quick fix. This must be discussed with the client ahead of time in the initial consultation so there are no miscommunications. Some corrective color services can take more than one visit to fully achieve the tone and level desired. Highlighting or balayage services, on the other hand, are ways to introduce some lighter pieces throughout the hair without such a lengthy process. Highlighting can blend or add dimension to a monochromatic color.
Natural melanin (eumelanin) in the hair is an equal blend of all three primary colors: blue, red, and yellow. It is responsible for creating brown and black hair. The more eumelanin a person has will determine how brown or black the hair will be. A medium amount of eumelanin the hair will be brown. Someone with a lot of eumelanin will appear black but someone with a minimal amount of eumelanin has blonde hair.
Natural red hair has more pheomelanin (red pigment) and minimal eumelanin (brown or black pigment). Did you ever have that one client who just always seem to appear red no matter what you do or how you formulate? This client has more pheomelanin present in their hair. The less pheomelanin a person has, the less red is visible in their hair color.
When hair is lightened in any way, the warmer tones red and yellow are always exposed.
Blue pigment is the first to leave the hair. To fully understand the lightening process, we must first understand the stages the hair must go through on its journey to becoming the ultimate blonde. When creating the ultimate blonde, we are first removing the primary colors of blue and red, and depending on what level of blonde we are trying to achieve we might also be removing some of the yellow as well.
There are specific tones you will recognize on your journey. Starting at a level 1, our remaining color is blue. Level 2 we see blue/violet; level 3 we see violet; 4 red/violet. Level 5 us red and seems to be where a lot of us have most of our difficulties. Level 6 red/orange; Level 7 is orange like the outside of an orange. Level 8 is yellow orange like the shade of an apricot. Level 9 is yellow like the outside of a banana, and finally level 10 is pale yellow/white like the inside of a banana.
To successfully decolorize the hair, it is always best to go one level lighter than the level you are lifting to in order to achieve the proper foundation for the desired level.
Example: If my desired level is a level 8 and I am starting from a level 6, I know that when I decolorize the hair, I must expose the remaining color to yellow (like the outside of a banana). Creating a visual of fruit or other Items is just a way to help you recognize when you have lifted to the level you desired.
Application is key.
Application is also key to a successful decolorization. Analyze the strand before beginning. Is there color on the ends? Is there a virgin new growth? What is the porosity of the hair? We know that virgin hair will lift quickly but hair with artificial pigment will require much more timing.
When dealing with different situations on the same head we must treat them differently.
Beginning at the midshaft before applying to the virgin hair will ensure an even decolorization process.
Don’t be afraid of using different volumes on the same head. When highlighting, use a lower volume in the back and as you work your way to the front try remix with a higher volume so that both areas finish lightening at the same time.
If you have not achieved an even shade of remaining pigment, it might be necessary to reapply the bleach.
Always pay attention to the porosity and overall condition of the hair before reapplying bleach. If you have an even bleaching result then your final color will be even. Sometimes additional bleaching is not doable because the hair is compromised. Use your professional judgment but this time realize you may not achieve the desired level in this visit. Corrective hair color is a process so do not be too tough on yourself.
Once hair is decolorized to the proper remaining color, you will have to choose whether you would like to enhance your final color or if you would like to refine the remaining color.
Choosing a tone opposite on the color wheel will help you refine unwanted warmth. To enhance the tone remaining after lightening, choose a tonal shade on the same side of the color wheel.
After a decolorizing service (highlighting or corrective work), you will want to thoroughly wash out the bleach with Oway Hbalance Shampoo and follow with Oway Hmilk No Stress to equalize the porosity before toning.
Toning with the chosen shade plus Oway Htone can take anywhere from 5 to 20 minutes. Always be cognitive of the porosity in the hair when choosing a toner.
Hmilk can also be used to equalize your porosity before toning. When toning at the shampoo bowl, you will want to remember to thoroughly towel dry the hair before applying the toner. Excess water can dilute your toner and can cause an uneven result.
So see, it is as easy as 1,2,3 and always remember the education department is here to offer additional support.
As more and more consumers look for healthier alternatives to traditional hair coloring services, many salon professionals are faced with an increasing number of clients that have used henna on their hair. Once henna builds up on the hair, hair can feel coated and coarse. Most clients are unhappy with henna results, and have discovered organic hair color options like Organic Way (Oway) and Original & Mineral (O&M).
For some of us, this is a “back to the future” situation that we can fondly reminisce about. For others who are newer to our profession, this is a first time, “what do I do about this” situation that can be an unwelcome complication to a fully booked day. Regardless of your perspective, all of us need to know how to prepare hair that has been colored with Henna to ensure predictable results.
A Note of Caution:
Henna can contain metallic salts which can react with oxidative dyes to create heat.
This can be a disconcerting experience for both stylist and client. None of us want to have a client ask us, “Is this supposed to be this hot?”, and then rush the client to the bowl, praying that when we rinse the color that we are not rinsing her hair down the drain as well. Many clients are not aware that Henna can contain metallic salts and they may not know if the Henna that they used contained this ingredient. Don’t be afraid to “be the expert” and let the client know the steps that need to be taken to ensure the best possible results.
How to Remove Henna from Hair
Shampoo the hair twice using a clarifying shampoo such as Htechby Organic Way. It effectively removes product residue for optimal technical results.
Using a sponge, work vodka (yes, you read it right) through the hair and leave on for 15 minutes. Vodka helps strip off the henna by breaking down the metal salts into smaller molecules, preparing the hair for the next step.
Then, rinse and shampoo twice with Organic Way Hbalance Shampoo, leaving the second lather on for 5 minutes. The gentle surfactants in Hbalance Shampoo help rebalance the hair’s pH after the Henna has been removed and neutralizes remaining alkaline residues.
Rinse and apply Organic Way Hmilk No Stress to restore moisture to the hair and strengthen the strands.
Leave on for 15 minutes, then rinse.
As more and more clients “go green” you may find this tip increasingly useful. There is no doubt the the green movement is here to stay and there has never been a better time in our industry to be identified as a leader in offering healthier, less toxic chemical services.
For those with frizzy, hard to manage hair, keratin smoothing treatments can be the ultimate remedy.
However, for some smoothing products, those results came at a price none of us can afford – our health. In this step-by-step, we show you can create smooth, frizz free hair that lasts 3-4 months with our Smooth Rituals Keratin Treatment! Smooth Rituals doesn’t contain common keratin treatment toxins like formaldehyde, methylene glycol, parabens or animal testing.
Step 1: Hair Preparation
Cleanse the hair TWICE with the Clarity Pre-Treatment Shampoo. This will help to remove any residue and soften the hair’s cuticle for better absorption of the Smooth Rituals Keratin Treatment.
Step 2: Rough Dry
Rough dry the hair to 75-80% so that the water will not displace the keratin treatment, but the hair is still left slightly damp. This is best accomplished with a blow dryer. After the rough dry, you will be able to see where the hair appears most unruly and frizzy.
Step 3: Section Hair
Divide the head into 4 sections. This will ensure ease of product application. Then select your application method.
Keratin Treatment Application Method Types
Spray Bottle Technique (recommended):
Using the spray nozzle sent with the Smooth Rituals Treatment or one that has a fine mist and not a stream, spray the product with a downward motion. Then, working in small, thin sections continue with the application and comb through the hair.
Bowl and Brush Application:
Start by weighing out 1 to 1 1⁄2 oz of the Smooth Rituals Keratin Treatment into a bowl. If needed, add more product in 1⁄2 oz increments to avoid any waste. Remember you MUST discard any unused treatment with this method.
Tip: Wear gloves during the application so that the treatment is absorbed by the hair and not your hands to ensure there is no waste of the product.
Step 4: Keratin Treatment Application
Begin treatment application where the hair appears most unmanageable, frizzy, and/or coarse. The sub-sections should be about the 1/16” thick (similar to the width of a credit card). Apply the Smooth Rituals Keratin Treatment using your preferred method choice from above.
Note: If using spray bottle application method, be sure to close nozzle by pressing button after use.
Use a fine tooth tail comb to pass through the hair to ensure coverage.
There should be very little to no excess product or residue coming off onto the comb. Continue to comb through the hair until little to no residue remains on the comb as you work through each section.
It is important in either application method to ensure even coverage and to NOT oversaturate the hair as it could hinder optimal results. Part the hair the way the client likes it and comb straight down.
Do not twist or clip the hair up once the product has been applied.
Tip: Oversaturation of the Smooth Rituals Keratin Treatment can make the finish feel sticky and hard.
Step 5: Processing
Allow 5 minutes to process at room temperature.
Step 6: Blow Dry Treatment Into Hair
Using thin sections and a round brush, blow dry the hair straight using medium heat until the hair is completely dry.
Tip: Use a concentrator nozzle attachment on the blow dryer to best direct air flow over the brush. Point the dryer in a downward direction at the section of hair you are drying, sealing the cuticle for smoothest results. Blow drying correctly is equally as important as proper flat ironing.
Step 6: Finish & Seal Keratin Treatment
Use a professional ceramic flat iron that is temperature controlled and heats up to 450 degrees F. Any temperatures lower than the following guidelines will not properly seal the Keratin properly, and the hair may appear dull.
For fragile, damaged, or fine hair: Iron temperature should be at 400 420 degrees F. Flat iron over the hair no more than three times.
For chemically treated hair in good condition: Iron temperature should be 430 degrees F. Flat iron the hair with four passes.
For virgin or thick, coarse hair: Iron temperature should be at 450 degrees F. Flat iron the hair with five or six passes.
Tip: If the ends of the hair are severely damaged or split, flat iron them less to prevent futher damage. Use appropriate flat iron width for hair length (1 1⁄2 “ maximum). The 1⁄2” flat iron works well for roots and around the hairline. Starting at the nape, using 1/8” sections, move the iron slowly from scalp to hair ends using the appropriate number of passes listed above. This is what seals the Keratin completely.
Keratin Treatment After Care
Wait 3-4 days minimum before shampooing the hair or getting the hair wet. This allows the service to cure.
During the curing phase and prior to the first shampoo, do not wet the hair.
Do not use styling products or clip/tie the hair back.
Keep the hair dry and straight.
If the hair does get wet or damp from rain or perspiration, etc. blow dry and flat iron the hair immediately.
Clients may also touch up any kinks or curls with a flat iron and/or blow dryer as often as necessary before the first shampooing. This will only help to seal the cuticle and expose soft, manageable, frizz free hair with shine.
After day 4, it is important that the clients use the Smooth Rituals Awakening Shampoo and Smooth Rituals Calming Conditioner at home. This will continually enhance the Keratin Treatment, where others may strip the keratin from the hair and be too aggressive.
Tip: The Smooth Rituals Renewal Treatment is an optional follow up service that can be performed at the salon in between Keratin treatments to extend the life of the service.
Bring Smooth Rituals Keratin Treatments to your salon!